Dominica: Where Adventure Lives Above and Below the Surface
- Daniela Sutter
- Jan 1
- 15 min read
On this blog, I'll share my latest travel experience to the island of Dominica.
The adventures that I had during my stay as well as things that may help you prepare for when you visit the island.
I recently traveled to Dominica on a familiarization (FAM) trip to explore a bit of the island for when we come back in June 2026 with our group of divers as well as non-divers. When friends asked where I was going, many assumed I meant the Dominican Republic. While the names may sound similar, Dominica (pronounced daa·muh·nee·kuh) and the Dominican Republic are two completely separate Caribbean nations, each with its own distinct history, language, and culture.
On this trip, I had a 4 days stay at Fort Young Hotel and Dive Resort, located in Roseau, the capital of Dominica. Located on southwest coast of the island, Roseau is known for its 18th-century Creole architecture, Its cobblestone mix of colorful colonial architecture, bustling markets (Old Market Square), botanical gardens, and unique Caribbean cuisine, making it a popular for nature lovers and cultural explorers.
Fort Young, is a historic waterfront hotel and resort originally built as a British military fort in 1770, named after Governor William Young. It served as a defense point and later a police headquarters before opening as a hotel in 1964. Ruins, including cannons and flagstone paths, remain within the modern hotel, showcasing its rich military past.
Dominica: The Nature Island of the Caribbean
Dominica, also know as the "Nature Island of the Caribbean" is a volcanic island located in the Lesser Antilles archipelago in the Caribbean Sea. It's history is shaped by its rugged landscape and strong cultural resilience. Originally inhabited by the indigenous Kalinago (Carib) people, the island resisted European control longer than most Caribbean islands. Claimed by both the French and the British in the 17th and 18th centuries, Dominica officially became a British colony in 1763, though French cultural influence remained strong.
After the abolition of slavery in 1834, formerly enslaved Africans and their descendants shaped much of the island’s identity. Dominica gained independence in 1978 and is now known as the “Nature Island of the Caribbean,” proudly preserving its indigenous heritage, African roots, and unspoiled environment.
Celebrated for its cultural resilience and preserved natural beauty, Dominica offers a rare kind of travel experience—one where lush rainforests meet raw volcanic coastlines, and where the underwater world feels just as wild and untouched as the land above it. For divers and adventure seekers alike, Dominica isn’t just a place you visit—it’s a place you explore.
Dominica Below the Surface: An Untouched Underwater World
Diving in Dominica is unlike anywhere else in the Caribbean. Shaped by volcanic activity, the island’s underwater terrain showcases dramatic steep walls, towering pinnacles, and mysterious craters invite exploration. The rich volcanic substrate supports vibrant coral, massive barrel sponges, and a diverse array of marine life, from seahorses, frogfish, and octopus to turtles and barracuda.
One of Dominica’s most iconic dive sites is Champagne Reef, where volcanic gases escape from the seabed, creating streams of warm bubbles that rise around you as you swim. It’s an otherworldly experience—one that truly captures Dominica’s volcanic heartbeat.
Diving in Dominica was the perfect blend of excitement and relaxation. The dive crew’s personalities set the tone right away—fun, welcoming, and effortlessly chill—making everyone feel at home from the start. They couldn’t have been friendlier, and you could tell they genuinely took pride in making every diver feel like part of the team. Before long, I found myself helping hook the buoy line and even sitting in on dive briefings. They were also more than happy to let me jump off the boat during surface intervals, which quickly turned into “mandatory” fun for all of us between dives.
Dominica is also known as one of the world’s top destinations for observing sperm whales. However, swimming with sperm whales in Dominica is not typically available as a single-day experience for individual tourists. These encounters are part of highly regulated, multi-day expeditions that require special government permits. Only a limited number of permits are issued, and they are granted exclusively to select licensed tour operators and guides.
On this trip, we had the opportunity to go whale and dolphin watching in the afternoons after our dives, departing from the dock at Fort Young. Just a few miles offshore, we were able to spot an average of four sperm whales. While on the boat, the crew shared fascinating information about the whales and pointed out many interesting details about their behavior and habitat.
Whale Watch Tour happens only on Wednesdays and Sundays from 2PM and leaves from the hotel dock. Booking required.
Did you know? Sperm whales are called sperm whales because early whalers found a waxy, oily substance called spermaceti in their large heads and mistakenly thought it was semen (sperm). The name stuck even after it was known to be incorrect, with spermaceti proving valuable for candles, lubricants, and cosmetics, while the whale's nickname comes from this unique head organ.
Beyond the Reefs: Dominica’s Mountains and Waterfalls
What truly sets Dominica apart is that the adventure doesn’t end when you take off your fins. Besides being an amazing place for scuba diving, above the surface, Dominica is a paradise for nature lovers.
The island is home to towering waterfalls, hot springs, natural pools, volcanic peaks, and dense rainforest crisscrossed by rivers and hiking trails. From the famous Boiling Lake hike to refreshing swims beneath hidden waterfalls, every day offers a new way to explore.
Although we didn’t have enough time to hike to Boiling Lake, since is about a 6 - 8 hour hike (round trip), we did get to visit Titou Gorge and Trafalgar Falls. Our package itinerary included a Waterfall Combo Tour, and during the drive to the the falls , our knowledgeable guide shared insights into Dominica’s history and culture, pointed out the Botanical Gardens, and introduced us to the island’s native trees and fruits.
Our first stop was Titou Gorge (“Little Throat”), a stunning volcanic canyon tucked into Dominica’s lush rainforest. This natural swimming adventure involves swimming upstream through cool, crystal-clear water between towering rock walls to reach a hidden waterfall—famous for its appearance in Pirates of the Caribbean. The swim was easy, with life jackets provided and guidance from our knowledgeable guide, who also helped us go beneath the cascading water to experience its raw power up close.
Next, we took a short ride to Trafalgar Falls, known as the “Twin Falls,” one of Dominica’s most iconic natural attractions. Set within a lush rainforest, the site features two powerful waterfalls fed by volcanic springs. A short, easy walk up a series of stairs—taking about 10 minutes—led us to a breathtaking viewpoint of the twin falls, making it accessible for most visitors.
Along the path, we had the opportunity to see land crabs, beautiful native birds, as well as agoutis—wild rodents that resemble capybaras, but are much smaller. After taking in the views, we made our way back to the van and stopped to visit a few local vendors, where we enjoyed a cold Kubuli and Carib, Dominica’s local beers, while looking at handmade items by the locals.
Dominica is known for many other waterfalls and natural sites to explore. However, during our short stay—and with our FAM trip duties of scouting the area for future trips—we had limited time to see everything.
Tip: When visiting Dominica, make sure to pack a pair of hiking shoes or hiking sandals if you plan on exploring the island’s trails. I also recommend bringing water shoes for river and waterfall adventures, plus a lightweight rain jacket—rain showers can pop up at any time!
👉 Click below to download my Gear Checklist and make packing a breeze.
Traveling to Dominica: What to Expect
As someone who loves traveling, I like to make my journey to each destination as smooth and stress-free as possible—especially when it comes to airports, immigration, and customs requirements. For that reason, I always make sure all my paperwork is in order.
We can all agree that the process of getting there and making sure you have everything you need can be overwhelming, so I’ll share a few tips to help make the experience a little less stressful.
Flying to Dominica
Main Airport: Douglas–Charles Airport (DOM)
Current Nonstop U.S. Flights to Dominica
United Airlines (Newark → Dominica)• United Airlines operates nonstop flights from Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) to Douglas-Charles Airport (DOM) in Dominica. These typically run 2 times weekly during peak travel seasons (such as winter) and are scheduled in advance when airlines publish their flight calendars (usually in six-month blocks). However, airlines may change scheduled dates according to demand.
Google Flights: Click Here
Island Entry & Exit
First things first, this advice applies not only to Dominica but to many countries when traveling internationally. Remember the "6 month passport rule", make sure your passport is valid for at least six months, as some countries may refuse boarding or entry if it doesn’t meet this requirement.
Additionally, make sure to always have a return ticket—most countries may deny entry if you only have a one-way ticket.
Arrival
To enter the Commonwealth of Dominica you must complete a Landing Card. An online form that should be submitted no more than three (3) days before travel to Dominica. A QR is generated that must be shown to the immigration officer upon arrival.
Even though this form can be completed by hand or online upon arrival by scanning the QR code, completing it online prior to arrival made my entry into Dominica much easier. Dominica’s airport is very small, and while other visitors were still filling out their forms in a cramped area, some without a table to write on and others even looking to borrow a pen, it became a bit disorganized for groups that came unprepared. And as a large number of visitors slowed down the entering process, a few of us were already heading to get our luggage.
After passing through the first customs officer, in the same space we joined another line as we collected our luggage to then go through the same process with a second officer, who asked a few brief questions. Moments later, I was out the door, where my transportation to the resort was waiting for me.
The process didn't take long, but be aware that is a very small area at the airport and since some visitors were not prepared, that area became crowded real quick. So being prepared is definitely my biggest suggestion.
The ride to the resort took just over an hour, as it’s located on the opposite side of the island. Along the way, I soaked in the stunning mountain views and admired the winding, curvy roads. By the way, in Dominica, cars drive on the left-hand side of the road, which means the steering wheel is on the right side of the vehicle—something to keep in mind if you’re considering renting a car when you visit.
Departure
After leaving the resort, we enjoyed a breathtaking one-hour drive along the winding mountain roads back to the airport. Inside the small terminal, I went through check-in to drop off my check-in luggage, answered a few questions, and received my boarding pass. The line for the security checkpoint was still outside the airport door, which confused a few people, so it’s worth noting.
Once waiting in line to get inside the small checkpoint area, I made my way to the waiting area, where there are only four gates, making it very easy to navigate. The waiting area has two small shops offering beverages and snacks, and some local goods and there was also a sandwich spot, which didn't look too busy.
I recommend having a meal at the resort or enjoying a healthy breakfast before heading to the airport, as there aren’t many food options once you arrive there. However, there is a small restaurant located just outside the airport before the security checkpoint, called The Airport Oasis, in case you get hungry. While I didn’t try it myself, several fellow travelers mentioned that the food was quite good.
Tip: When traveling, especially to small countries, I also like to bring copies of important documents instead of relying solely on my cellphone. Even if I don’t end up needing the paper copies, you never know when your cellphone battery might die, being unable to charge your devices or even if you lose your phone (ask me how I know).
So my biggest advice is to be prepared for any situation.
At the Resort
When traveling, it’s a good idea to take care of certain tasks ahead of time, such as completing pre-check-in forms or other paperwork. For example, if you plan on diving, make sure to fill out liability waivers in advance and have copies of your highest certification card as well as Nitrox card. While many agencies now offer digital cards, they aren’t always accessible, and on some smaller islands it can be much easier to show a physical copy rather than relying on an online version.
Prior to the travel date, the resort sent me paperwork to complete to speed up the check-in process. So I made sure to have all that completed prior to arrival and also brough copies with me just in case. (I know, it may seem unnecessary to have copies of everything, but until one day you need it than it becomes a habit to have them in case is needed). So my check-in process at Fort Young took me less than 2 minutes.
After dropping off my luggage, i stopped by the dive shop to check-in there and since they had all my info that was already sent over by email, in a few minutes I was free to take a stroll through the resort to familiarize with the layout, especially for when we bring the group.
The resort layout was a bit confusing at first, but once I learned that many areas are part of the original fort and that it’s built into the mountain, everything made sense. There are elevators to the common areas as well, which made it super easy to navigate.
The rooms were beautifully furnished and surprisingly spacious, with most offering ocean views—my own personal front-row seat to breathtaking sunsets each evening. And when I wasn’t watching from the balcony, I’d be by the pool or in the hot tub, cocktail in hand enjoying the view.
Weather and Water Temperature
The weather in December was perfect, with sunshine most of the day and only a few days of occasional tropical showers that lasted just a few minutes, which I'd suggest to bring a light wind breaker especially if you are exploring the mountains. Air temperatures hovered around 86°F, while the water averaged 81°F in mid-December. I was quite comfortable in my 1 mm wetsuit, though a vest or a 2 to 3mm suit would be recommended for those who get cold easily—especially in December. Visibility ranged from 60 feet and beyond, with mostly mild currents.
Electric Current
220/240 volts, 50 cycles. A converter may be required for American appliances. Outlets are three prong European style and adapters may be needed. However , in our room, the lamps and outlets had USB connection, even though was perfect to charge my cellphone over night, may not be ideal to charge other devices such as dive computer, flashlights and cameras.
Tip: I always bring a converter and a surge protector when traveling which allows me to charge multiple devices at once. Very helpful when bringing dive cameras, flashlights, etc.
Currency
The currency in Dominica is the East Caribbean Dollar (XCD). While US Dollars (USD) are widely accepted, the official currency is XCD. If bringing USD, it’s highly recommended to bring new bills, as many establishments may not accept notes that are torn, dirty, marked, or old, making it difficult to be accepted by the local banks. You can also order East Caribbean Dollars from your US bank to be delivered by mail before traveling and bring them with you.
US Dollar to Eastern Caribbean Dollar Exchange Rate: https://share.google/ChVlLE72cdUqIUS5n
Tip: When traveling, I always recommend bringing cash—preferably in small bills for tipping—and, if possible, carrying some of the local currency of your destination. I also suggest bringing both a credit and a debit card, keeping them safely locked in your room. You never know what could happen, and a debit card lets you withdraw money, while a credit card can be useful and can also build up your credit when used.
Language
In Dominica, English is the official language, used in government and education, but the most common everyday language is Dominican Creole French (Kweyòl), a French-based creole that reflects the island's history and culture. English is well-understood, while Kweyòl is vital for local communication, often used alongside English, with younger generations sometimes favoring English but efforts underway to preserve Creole.
Things to do in Dominica
One of the places you must visit is the colorful Dominica sign right outside Fort Young's Entry/Exit gate that leads to the town.
Waterfalls, Pools & Gorges
Emerald Pool – A stunning waterfall and emerald-green swimming pool set in the rainforest — perfect for a refreshing dip.
Trafalgar Falls – Iconic twin waterfalls known as Father and Mother; easy to visit by trail with viewpoints and natural pools.
Victoria Falls – Victoria Falls in Dominica is a dramatic rainforest waterfall on the White River (Rivière Blanche) near the village of Delices in Saint Patrick Parish on the southeast side of the island
Middleham Falls – Tall, dramatic falls deep in the rainforest — great for hikers.
Jacko Falls, Salton Waterfalls, Wavine Cyrique Falls – Additional beautiful cascades worth exploring.
Unique Volcanic Features
Boiling Lake – A surreal, steaming volcanic lake and one of Dominica’s top natural wonders (challenging hike).
Valley Of Desolation – Geothermal area of fumaroles and sulfur vents with otherworldly landscapes.
Ocean & Marine Activities
Champagne Reef – Snorkel among coral reefs with volcanic bubbles rising from the seafloor — a unique underwater experience.
Whale Watching & Dolphin Tours – Dominica is one of the few places where sperm whales are seen year-round; boat tours are popular for whale/dolphin sightings. Paradise Dominica: Your Tropical Escape
Beaches – Relax or swim at beaches like Mero Beach and Scotts Head Beach.
Forest & River Exploration
Indian River Tours – Scenic guided boat rides through mangrove waterways (featured in Pirates of the Caribbean).
Hiking & Scenic Lookouts
Waitukubuli National Trail – A long hiking route across the island’s diverse landscapes (many sections accessible as day hikes).
Morne Bruce Viewpoint – Great views over Roseau and the bay.
Museums & Gardens
The Dominica Museum – Learn about island history and culture in Roseau.
Dominica Botanic Gardens – Beautiful gardens showcasing local flora.
Indigenous & Cultural Sites
Kalinago Territory – Visit traditional villages and learn about the island’s first people, their crafts, food, and culture.
Events
World Creole Music Festival – A lively annual music and culture festival held each October celebrating Creole music and heritage.
Parks & Heritage Sites
Cabrits National Park – Explore coastal forest, old military ruins, trails, and wildlife in this scenic national park.
Fort Shirley – Historic fort within Cabrits National Park with panoramic sea views.
Suggested Places to Eat
While Dominica offers a variety of places to taste the island’s local dishes, I’ve curated a list of some of my favorite spots within walking distance of Fort Young Hotel & Dive Resort—perfect for sampling Creole, Caribbean, and international flavors. These options are great whether you want a relaxed bite, a drink with friends, or a full dining experience just steps away from the resort.
Tip: Click each restaurant’s name for their website, menu, or location (when available). Always double-check hours, as many places shift their schedule seasonally—some close on Sundays, and others only open from Thursday to Saturday.
Dining at Fort Young Hotel
Ideal for anyone who wants the convenience of staying on the property.
Palisades Restaurant — Caribbean-inspired · Seafood · Local & International Cuisine. Waterfront dining right at Fort Young Hotel. A beautiful spot to unwind with ocean views—perfect if you don’t feel like heading into town.
Warner's Bar — Caribbean-inspired · Seafood · Local & International Cuisine.
Located in the lower area of the resort with easy access to town. A great meet-up spot before or after exploring Roseau. Enjoy casual dining, refreshing cocktails, and oceanfront seating.
Marquis Bar & Lounge — Cocktails · Small plates · Lounge.
A relaxed and sophisticated lounge with comfortable seating—ideal for socializing over drinks and light bites after a day of adventure. The resort offers a Manager's Cocktail Hour on Mondays from 6 - 6:30PM, a nice gathering with other visitors as well hotel staff.
My go-to place for quick bites like empanadas, cookies, and coffee. Great for an afternoon pick-me-up before heading back out.
Local Spots Within Walking Distance
All located in downtown Roseau—only a few minutes from the resort.
Hi Rise Beach Bar — (4 minute walk) Caribbean casual · Bar food · Tropical drinks.
A fun post-adventure hangout with sandy floors, great music, and relaxed island vibes. Perfect for a drink and a snack after a long day exploring.
Ruins Rock Café — (3 minute walk) Caribbean & Creole · Adventurous Eats · Live Music.
A standout spot with an eclectic menu featuring burgers, wraps, and specialty plates with options like agouti, manicou, and lobster. Pair it with live music and a cold local beer.
Lacou Melrose House — (5 minute walk) Farm-to-Table · Seasonal · Fresh Island Cuisine.
Highly recommended. A refined yet warm dining experience with menus built around local ingredients, island-fresh seafood, and seasonal produce.
Cravings Restaurant — (2 minute walk) Caribbean & Creole · Cozy Ambiance.
Charming décor, welcoming atmosphere, and a menu that highlights authentic Dominican and Caribbean flavors.
The Great Old House — (1 minute walk) Fine Dining · Caribbean & Creole · Historic Setting.
Located in a beautifully restored colonial building on Castle Street. Elevated dining that blends history, architecture, and delicious island cuisine.
Top Bar — (24 minute walk/5 by car) Cocktails · Bar bites · Island views.
A colorful, tropical hangout serving creative cocktails and tasty snacks—with some of the best casual views in the area.
Pearl's Kitchen — (7 minute walk) Caribbean & Creole
This gem is a well-known local restaurant in Roseau that specializes in authentic Dominican and Caribbean/Creole food with a strong focus on local flavors and traditional home-style cooking.
Patty Shack — (2 minute walk) Caribbean · Creole · Jamaican
Patty Shack is a popular fast-casual food spot in Roseau, Dominica known especially for authentic Jamaican-style patties and quick eats. It’s a local favorite for a casual lunch, snack, or take-out meal in the capital city.
Tropical Blendz Cafe — (5 minute walk) Smoothies
A vibrant health‑focused café and juice bar located in Roseau, Dominica. It’s known for offering natural, fresh beverages and light food options with a Caribbean twist.
Flavours Grill — (8 minute walk) Caribbean & Creole
This restaurant is renowned for its diverse menu that seamlessly blends local Caribbean flavors with international cuisine, ensuring there’s something for every palate. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, making it an ideal spot for both casual meals and special occasions.
These are only a few of the local places that I've visited during my stay and that are on my list to visit when I return to the island.
Dominica is a wonderful island, full of history, culture, and natural beauty, and I can't wait to return and explore even more. If you’re interested in joining our trip to Dominica in June 2026, you can click here for more information or you can reach out directly by completing our contact form.
🌊Hope to Sea you soon!
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